Vineyard Designates – A Sense of Place

Our fall release wines are vineyard designates, which means that they are from one particular vineyard in one particular spot in California. The sites are different in many ways, so each wine is a true expression of the vineyard’s individuality. We bottle a lot of these single vineyard Pinot Noirs, and appreciate that it can be a bit daunting, so we have classified them in the tasting notes section of this newsletter into three groups to assist you in making selections which will most appeal to your palate: Elegant, Medium-Bodied, and Full-Bodied. While there are some variations from vintage to vintage, if you try one vineyard designate over the years, you will discern a consistent aroma and flavor profile, and I try to highlight these in my tasting notes.

We pride ourselves on our long record of consistency. Our sites, individual vineyard blocks, and winemaking techniques remain constant. Therefore, the differences that you taste in the wines are truly an expression of the site with some variation depending on the vintage. Working with our talented growers as well as our expert viticultural staff here at the winery, we are dedicated to being faithful to each vineyard’s characteristics.

Pinot Noir is known to be site specific and translates the sense of place extremely well. The confluence of soil type and microclimate has a profound influence on the flavor profile. The Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast, Anderson Valley, and Central Coast regions offer unique perspectives. Whether it be proximity to fog, elevation, drainage in the soil, or the actual composition of the soil, these factors in the grape’s development all craft the aroma and flavor profile of the resulting wine.

Having a molecular biology background, I am fascinated by the concept that Pinot Noir can adapt due to its propensity to change its DNA. Pinot Noir is unique in that it has mobile DNA elements called “transposable DNA elements” or “transposons”. Without getting too much into the science, these “transposons” can create modifications in genes that enable adaptation to sites. This is why Pinot Noir has more variants or clones than any other grape variety! Some of our favorite clones are Pommard, Swan, and Mt. Eden, and each has a different flavor profile, cluster architecture, berry quality including tannin, and acid level.

This concept of mutation can be viewed as adaptation to a site. If there are unique conditions in a particular vineyard, i.e. limestone or a limitation in a micronutrient, the plant adapts to these unique circumstances. This adaptation can consequently influence the aroma and flavor profile of the grape and therefore the wine. This happens gradually over time, and it is evident that older vines tend to make better and more consistent wine, arguably due to adaptation to a site as well as digging its roots deeper into its particular soil.

With such inherent uniqueness in a specific piece of land, influence of the microclimate, and Pinot Noir’s propensity for adaptation, one could argue that carefully crafted Pinot wines are truly expressions of the place they’re from. Pinot Noir, being of lighter body, seems almost perfectly able to translate the sense of place with clarity.

When I first started getting into the wines of Burgundy, it was confusing with so many vineyards and producers. My approach was to taste as many wines as possible from different regions to understand the overall differences and then to drill down into the specific premier cru and grand cru sites to see specific differences. Burgundy set the standard on defining specific terroirs and embracing the differences and extolling the virtues of the differences. In our own way, we do the same in California. We encourage you to explore the variety of flavor experiences that these vineyard designates offer. I hope you enjoy these wines as much as I and the viticultural and wine production team enjoy making them.

Cheers!

Jeff

2022 Vintage Summary

The 2022 growing season experienced epic drought conditions, with the first half of the calendar year being one of the driest on record. Most of the rainfall came in November and December, saturating the soil, and setting the stage for the early part of the year. With a full soil moisture profile and moderate temperatures in the early spring, bud break started around historical average. Many frost nights ensued, which impacted early season growth and slowed down shoot elongation, creating some unevenness. The cool period in and around flowering further prolonged the flowering cycle and created a wide degree of variability. The unsettled weather in general ranged from cool temperatures to occasional rain showers to a freak hailstorm in early May. The remainder of the season was thankfully moderate, and harvest started on historical average in early August. The key to success in 2022 was the selective thinning of shoots and fruit to reduce the variation, tightening the window of ripening. Due to the complexities of the growing season, the wines show excellent structure and verve, with typical site specificity, and all in all a terrific vintage with aging potential.

Tasting Notes

Pinot Noir – Elegant

2022 Vista Verde Vineyard Pinot Noir
$72, 13.9% alc., San Benito County
Notes of fresh plum and berry are apparent in this wonderfully aromatic wine. Interlaced into the fruit notes are hints of tangerine, cedar, and five-spice. Flavors of plum and berry play a predominant role, along with hints of wood spices. Supple at the entry, the wine has terrific grip in the mid-palate before turning soft and elegant again with a gravelly impression lingering on the finish. Due to the limestone soil, Vista Verde typically has a beautiful and supple texture with a mineral-like impression.

2022 Allen Vineyard Pinot Noir
$110, 13.9% alc., Russian River Valley
The Allen perfume is elusive and hard to describe but can be summed up with hints of strawberry and delicate flowers. Traces of raspberry and citrus come through in the delicate aromatics. The palate is really where this wine shines with roundness throughout from the front to the back. Lightly brewed black tea on the mid-palate transitions to an effusive finish of crushed rocks and minerals. Allen has a terrific track record of ageability, but who can resist it now!

Pinot Noir – Medium-Bodied

2022 Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir
$78, 13.8% alc., Russian River Valley
Aromatically unique in profile, notes of raspberry and cream combine with earthy elements. Clove, cedar, leather, and sous bois aromas all layer together in the nose. Vibrant and fresh in the mouth, the flavors of red fruits are a counterpoint to the earthy, leathery elements, which intrigue the palate. Situated on the hills of Westside Road, this is usually one of the first sites picked, which preserves the raspberry freshness of this wine.

2022 Calegari Vineyard Pinot Noir
$78, 14.1% alc., Russian River Valley
Complex and alluring on the nose, this wine is reminiscent of potpourri spices with highlights of red fruits and citrus peel. Notes of dried rose petals and lavender offer a beautiful lift to this highly aromatic wine. Vibrant and focused in the mouth, with flavors of bright red fruits and citrus peel, and a persistent finish of black tea-like tannins. Calegari is typified by red fruits and a tangy acid profile that allows for a wide array of food pairings. This is quintessential Russian River Valley Pinot Noir at its best.

2022 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot Noir
$78, 13.9% alc., Anderson Valley
Red currant and cranberry notes abound in this electric wine from a stalwart site in Boonville. Hints of black cherry mingle with anise and clove to round out the explosive aromatics. Flavors of bergamot, currant, and cranberry permeate and saturate the palate with a refreshing tangerine tanginess. Year after year, Ferrington produces wines of verve while maintaining a sense of Zen. A versatile wine with food pairings and tremendous aging potential.

2022 Foss Vineyard Pinot Noir
$78, 13.8% alc., Russian River Valley
Mulberry and plum notes mix with hints of leather and cedar. Five-spice and woody spices belie the dark fruit character and add an additional layer of complexity to this wine. Berry fruit flavors and hints of lightly brewed coffee are apparent on the palate along with a touch of wood spices. Foss consistently has a brooding fruit profile with earthy undertones and moderate acidity that offers richness.

2022 Rochioli Riverblock Vineyard Pinot Noir
$110, 13.5% alc., Russian River Valley
A quintessential and classic wine from the Williams Selyem portfolio, this wine never disappoints. Dark fruited in nature, the wine has a brooding nose with savory elements of dried herbs and tree bark. The layers of aromas meld together, and the nose and palate seem to take on an ethereal quality. Flavors of brambles and berry fruits mingle with the savory notes that offer a wonderful balance. Due to cool and slow ripening along the bank of the Russian River, the tannins are smooth and polished. An umami sensation towards the finish brings the palate to a wonderful conclusion.

2022 Lewis MacGregor Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir
$125, 13.9% alc., Russian River Valley
Perfumed with summer red and black fruits, the aromas are captivating and alluring. Situated on a hilly site on Eastside Road, the Lewis MacGregor Estate Vineyard has a beautiful sunny exposition and extremely well drained soil to create a wine with concentration and finesse. Hints of citrus and purple flowers perfectly compliment the fruit notes. Flavors of black and red fruits transition into a tea-like flavor and sensation. Well-focused, the fresh acidity carries the wine to a long and satisfying finish. MacGregor is an enigma that showcases density while maintaining a terrific airiness.

2022 Williams Selyem Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir
$125, 13.8% alc., Russian River Valley
Beautifully aromatic with raspberry and black cherry notes. Highlighted with hints of bergamot and cedar, this wine is luxuriously layered. Hints of clove and sarsaparilla add an enticing mid-bass range to the nose. Delicate and powerful at the same time, the wine coats the palate with red fruits and citrus. The tannins are extremely refined and approachable but will develop nicely over time. The finish is poised and graceful with a crushed rock and mineral finish.

Pinot Noir – Full-Bodied

2022 Weir Vineyard Pinot Noir
$78, 14.2% alc., Yorkville Highlands
Perfumed and nuanced with scents of strawberry and a bouquet of flowers. An aroma of fennel and fennel pollen along with savory undertones add intrigue to this unique wine. The nose also highlights notes of crushed minerals that captivate the senses. Robust on the entry, the palate clearly indicates the elevation and rocky, well-drained soils where the grapes are grown. Red fruits and citrus flavors predominate with hints of wood spices. A wine that typically requires some time in the bottle to harmonize the structural components, but with patience, the reward is outstanding!

2022 Coastlands Vineyard Pinot Noir
$110, 14.2% alc., Sonoma Coast
Notes of black cherry juice mix with pomegranate and savory undertones in very showy aromatics. As if walking under a Coastal redwood forest, the smells of the underbrush and tree bark lure the senses. On the tongue, the wine glides across the palate with refreshing acidity and carries along with it flavors of red and black fruit and sous bois elements. The structure is robust, but the extract compellingly softens the palate and brings it back to balance. With a stunning view of the Sonoma Coast from the vineyard, this wine typifies the rugged, wild coast with its intensity and grace.

2022 Cohn Vineyard Pinot Noir
$110, 13.8% alc., Sonoma County
Another blockbuster of a wine, the 2022 Cohn is a wine of depth and complexity. Brooding and dark, notes of black cherry combine with blood orange and hints of sous bois. Wood spices perfectly complement the dark fruit character. With great acidity and structure, the wine is buffered with terrific extract that provides balance. Dark fruits, citrus, and notes of cedar wrap up with flavors of black tea.

2022 Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir
$110, 14.1% alc., Sonoma Coast
With scents of wild herbs, fennel, and dark fruits, Hirsch never disappoints. Notes of five-spice and soy further add a depth to the umami aromatics. Tannic and rich at the same time, the palate is saturated with flavors of blackberry and pomegranate while maintaining a freshness of acidity to counterpoint the sheer size of the wine. The tannins are robust yet fine, and finish with a hint of cedar and lightly roasted Costa Rican coffee.

2022 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir
$110, 14.1% alc., Anderson Valley
The aromatic profile is like a kaleidoscope for the nose. Aromas range from fruity to savory with notes of black cherry, mulberry, blueberry, citrus, cedar, and hints of sous bois. Equally complex in the mouth, the palate overwhelms the senses with flavors and transitions to a predominant sensation of black tea-like tannins from the mid-palate to the firm finish. Mysterious and enigmatic in personality, Savoy showcases a unique perspective of the Anderson Valley that will intrigue the senses.

2022 Precious Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir
$150, 13.6% alc., Sonoma Coast
Red fruits with a dried herb and dusty, earthy quality are coaxed from the glass. A hint of dried rose petals and lavender adds a lift to the dark-fruited profile. With air, the red fruit character appears as raspberry confiture. Tannic at the outset, the structure continues down the palate and finishes with a grapefruit-like sensation. High atop the Sonoma Coast, Precious Mountain is typified by structure and savory qualities. Low yielding and dry farmed, it is easy to understand why this wine is so intense. Patience in the cellar will be rewarded with a sublime texture.

Chardonnay

2022 Allen Vineyard Chardonnay
$68, 14.1% alc., Russian River Valley
Highly aromatic and perfumed, the Allen Chardonnay is a quintessential Russian River Valley Chardonnay at its best. Notes of spiced pear and yellow apple combine with hints of white flowers and tangerine. Subtle notes of allspice and nutmeg compliment the knockout nose. The palate is beautifully rich with outstanding acid that gives the wine an ethereal quality as if to glide across the tongue. Pear and pear skin flavors predominate. The structure of the wine is compelling with terrific tannins that transition to a delightful crushed mineral finish.

2022 Drake Estate Vineyard Chardonnay
$68, 14.1% alc., Russian River Valley
Hints of Meyer lemon combine with mandarin orange and tropical notes in this exotically aromatic wine. A trace of shiso leaf perks up in the background, showcasing the cool climate nature of the vineyard. The Meyer lemon theme carries through on the palate and is round and unctuous without ever being heavy. The wine finishes with a spiciness reminiscent of the Meyer lemon skin.

2022 Lewis MacGregor Estate Vineyard Chardonnay
$68, 14.3% alc., Russian River Valley
A showstopping wine with concentrated and piercing aromatics of spiced pear, apple, and crushed minerals. Aged on the lees, a subtle biscuit note adds an interesting undertone along with a hint of orange blossom. Planted to an old Wente clone of Chardonnay, the wine is about texture with terrific concentration while maintaining verve and precision. The back half of the palate is completely saturated with an impression of crushed minerals that lingers on the finish.

2022 Three Sisters Vineyard Chardonnay
$68, 14.1% alc., Fort Ross-Seaview
As if walking on the Sonoma Coast, aromas of chapparal typify this wine. Unique and special subtle notes of yellow pear and Mirabelle plum are complemented by aromas of a meadow and a sous bois character. The palate is where this wine shines with a compelling tannic structure. Flavors of plum transition to an impression of salinity throughout and finish with a quinine-like sensation. This is a special terroir on the Coast that offers a unique expression of Chardonnay.

2022 Williams Selyem Estate Vineyard Chardonnay
$70, 14.4% alc., Russian River Valley
Exotic and floral at the outset, notes of lime, pear, and apple are discernible. Musk melon belies the floral character and adds a wonderful depth. The palate is rich and round with an elegant finish. The burst of melon and jasmine flowers in the mid-palate adds a satisfying depth to the palate. The finish is effusive and subtle with a hint of salinity to complete the picture.

Zinfandel

2022 Bacigalupi Vineyard Zinfandel
$72, 15.1% alc., Russian River Valley
Reminiscent of a basketful of summer berries, the aromas are concentrated yet maintain an unmatched freshness. More brooding elements of loganberry and hints of pepper are also apparent and provide the mid-bass range to complete a layered aromatic profile. Upon entry, this wine showcases the cool climate nature of the Russian River Valley with refreshing acidity that carries the dark berry flavors to a long, satisfying finish. Made in traditional Williams Selyem style with the dairy tanks and gentle handling, the palate profile is balanced and round.

2022 Saitone Estate Vineyard Zinfandel
$72, 15.1% alc., Russian River Valley
A sensational nose of boysenberry and brambles jump from the glass to captivate the senses. Hints of pomegranate, citrus, and black pepper add further complexity. Sizeable in structure and weight, the black fruit character predominates and is wonderfully balanced by the tanginess of citrus. Hints of clove and wood spices add a perfume and levity to the bouquet. Refreshing and balanced, this wine highlights what old-vine Zinfandel is all about.

Braised Beef Cheeks with Tagliatelle Pasta

Recipe by Lead WS Estate Host Kathleen de Chadenedes | Serves 2 to 4

1 beef cheek (approximately 1 pound)
1 cup Pinot Noir
1 cup chicken stock
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 bay leaf
1 sprig fresh thyme
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 leeks, white part only
4 medium carrots
2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley

Using a sharp boning knife, remove the thick connective tissue found on one side of the beef cheek. Remove any bits of fat as well.

The beef can be braised in an Instant Pot, on the stovetop in a medium-large pot with a lid or pressure cooker, or in the oven at 325° in a deep ovenproof casserole with lid.

Combine wine, stock, garlic, and bay leaf and heat to a gentle boil. Add beef cheek, cover and cook either under pressure or low heat until tender – about 1 hour under pressure cook or about 3 hours in a pot or in the oven. Remove meat from liquid and test for doneness. The meat should shred easily with a fork. If not, return meat to liquid and continue cooking until it does.

While the meat cooks, halve leeks lengthwise and remove a few tough outer layers. Slice crosswise about 1/4” thick, rinse well in a bowl of cold water, and lift out to a strainer. While leeks are draining, peel carrots and cut into 1/2” thick rounds.

In a 9-10” sauté pan, heat olive oil over medium low heat. Add leeks and cook, stirring, until leeks begin to soften. Be careful not to brown leeks. Add carrots and continue cooking until leeks are soft. Set aside.

When meat is tender, remove it from liquid to a large plate and shred with a fork. Reduce cooking liquid by half over high heat, then add vegetables and shredded meat. Cook over medium low heat until carrots are tender.

Remove garlic clove, thyme sprig, and bay leaf. Adjust seasoning to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Add parsley and serve mixed with prepared tagliatelle pasta.

Variations:
-Add dried porcini mushrooms and substitute the soaking liquid for some or all of the stock.
-Replace the stock with pomegranate juice.
-Add some peas and use as the base for a spin on shepherd’s pie.

This dish pairs beautifully with the 2022 Weir Vineyard Pinot Noir.

Important Dates

August 5: General Release Opens
November 1-3: NY Pickup at Millbrook Winery
November 4: Default ship date for all orders
Various Dates: CA Pickup. We will contact you to schedule.

Ordering

• Online ordering is strongly encouraged! To access your allocation, use the customized hyperlink in the email we’ll send to you on the opening day of the release. Or sign in via our website using your user credentials.
• Orders are filled on a first-come, first-served basis. Allocations are not guaranteed; they represent the number of bottles available to you until the wine sells out (which is often before the last day to order). Please place your order as soon as possible for best order fulfillment.
• For bottles beyond your allocation, please use the wish list column. These requests will be filled, if possible, before the close of the release. You do not need to include payment for wish list wines. We will charge or invoice your account later if the request is filled.
• If paying by check, please send via mail to 7227 Westside Rd, Healdsburg CA 95448.
• Order confirmations will be sent via email. Please verify your email address!
• Faxed or mailed orders submitted without payment will not be filled; phone and email orders are not accepted.

Shipping

• Unless otherwise specified or specifically requested, our main ship date is Monday, November 4.
• Some states do not permit direct wine shipments, or they may limit the amount of wine we can ship to you. Please see our website for more details.
• We require a valid shipping address (sorry, no PO Boxes) where someone 21+ years of age is available to sign for the package, during regular business hours.

Wine Pickup

CALIFORNIA

• If you wish to pick up your wine at the WS Estate, please select the ‘CA Pickup’ option and we will reach out to schedule your pickup.

THIRD-PARTY PICKUP

• WS does not apply a shipping/handling charge for CA Pickup going to the third-party vendors listed above. Handling fees may be added by the vendor; see your contract or contact them directly for more info.
• You must establish an account with the third-party vendor of your choice prior to order pickup.
• Please also note that these vendors do not allow pickups from their physical locations.

NEW YORK

• The dates for the Pickup Event in Millbrook, NY are Friday, November 1 – Sunday, November 3. If you select this option, we will communicate event details with you via email as we get closer to the event.Address: 26 Wing Road, Millbrook, NY 12545; Phone: (845) 677-8383, ext. 21
  Email address: millbrookwinery@millwine.com; Website: www.millbrookwine.com